The Cutest Curtains Ever!!! {tutorial}

 I spent a week in Virginia helping my friend decorate her house.  She has this big window in her front room and it needed some curtains.  Here is how you can make them too!

We bought this 2-pack of canvas drop cloths at the Home Depot.  They were $10 for the pair.  We liked these because they were a little more gray than tan.

Some of the other canvas drop cloths were only 1 in a package.  The ones we bought were perfect because we needed 2 curtain panels.

They ended up being the perfect width for our window.  You may need to adjust the measurements to fit your window.  Measure how long you want them and then add 3″ for the hem.  Make sure to consider how you want to hang them.  Ours were hung with curtain clips on a rod.  Cut off the extra fabric and hem.  Our hem was rolled once then again about 2 1/2 inches.

We bought a Queen size flat sheet at the thrift shop it was on sale for $3.

Snip the sheet at 4″ increments and tear apart.  (Do this the long way so you have enough length to ruffle.)  We used 6 strips per panel.  Adjust depending on the size of your curtains.  The combination of the warn, softness of the sheet and the tearing gave the ruffles a nice vintage edge.

After the strips are torn, cut the hemmed edges off the strips so they are raw on all 4 sides.  Sew a gathering stitch down the center of the 4″ strips.  Gather.

Draw a line 1/3 the way up from the bottom of the curtain.  Then draw a line every 6″ to the bottom of the curtain.  You should have 6 lines for 6 ruffles.

Adjust the ruffle to fit the width of your panel.  Pin the gathered seam along the pencil line.  Continue pinning all 6 ruffles.  Sew a straight stitch over your gathering stitch.  It’s a little awkward because the drop cloth is a little thick. 


 Keep gathering and gathering and pinning and pinning – you can do it!!

 Once you have sewn the ruffles on, they are ready to hang!!  You could easily make a pocket at the top if you don’t want to use curtain clips.  We bought our clips and rod at Target.

We finished our project at 1:00 am.  We hung them up and sat on the couch and admired them for quite some time.  They gave the room such a darling, finished look.

 In my house in California, I have shutters on all my windows, so I don’t think I will be able to have my own set of these curtains in my house.  That makes me sad.  I took lots of pictures so I could remember how cute they turned out!!

Amanda

Gratitude Rocks version 1.2

We’ve had so much fun making these gratitude rocks, I though I would post our latest versions.  For the original post, click HERE.

Step #1 Paint river rocks.

Step #2 Write or paint your name on the rock
Step #3 Cut words out of magazines describing the person whose name is on the rock.   By doing this, you are showing your gratitude for these qualities and talents. 

 Step #4 Use Mod Podge to attach the words to the rock

Step #5 Smile at your rock every time you look at it!!!


Amanda

Onsie Dress Tutorial

 My friend mailed me this “blank” onsie for a baby shower.  It’s a cute idea.  Everyone invited to the shower gets a onsie and they have to decorate/embellish it and bring it to the shower.  I think they are having prizes or something.  That’s a lot of pressure, “Here is a plain onsie, you write a craft blog, so this better be amazing!!”  Is how I felt 🙂  So this is what I came up with.  (I am sure there are lots of tutorials out there with the same idea – this is my take on it.)

Part 1 Bib construction

 Draw a “bib” shape on Heat N Bond Lite Fusable Web.  I curved the top of it to match the curve of the onsie neck.  I didn’t include a pattern because each onsie is slightly different.  You can do it – draw your own!!   Iron it on the wrong side of your fabric.  Then cut along your line and peel off the back and iron it right on your onsie.

 Cut your piece of lace and a matching piece of Heat N Bond.  Iron it to the lace.  Then cut the lace so it matches the curve of the bib.  Iron the lace to the bib piece.


Sew the lace down both sides.  Then sew around the bib portion using a straight stitch.
Next, prepare the ruffle.  Cut a strip of fabric 1 3/4″ x 23″. 
I don’t have a serger so I did a rolled hem on the strip of fabric – which is just turning it twice as narrow as you can and sew along the fold. 

 Now, because I am not using a serger, I zigzagged the opposite side of the fabric so it won’t fray.  (above)

Then roll the edges in and hem.

 Now roll your zigzagged edge over and stitch in place.  I used the zigzag because I will be gathering it and I wanted to reduce the bulk.  Sew a gathering stitch along the edge of the zigzag hem and gather.   It should look like this:

Get out your pins and start fussing with the ruffle to get it to fit.  I use a lot of pins in this process so it fits perfectly.  Make adjustments in the ruffle as necessary.

 Sew the ruffle along your gathering stitch.

You could add buttons along the lace – but I was worried about putting buttons on something for a baby.

Part 2 – Skirt Construction

You can tell from the photos it is getting later and later and I am getting tired-er.  My photos aren’t the best.  Essentially you are making a little gathered skirt and sewing it to the onsie.

Cut your skirt fabric 11 1/2″x 34″.
My onsie is size 3 to 9 months.  (That’s a new size to me.  My youngest is 5 and I never had onsies made that size!)  If your onsie is larger I would add a little to both measurements. 

With right sides together, sew the two edges together to form the back seam.  You will have a continuous piece.  Press the seams open or zigzag the edges.  My seam allowance was a generous quarter inch.  It doesn’t really matter on this project.

(Maybe I should iron my fabric!!)  The skirt is top-stitched to the onsie (you could cut the onsie apart and sew it to the shirt portion like a T-shirt dress, but then you wouldn’t have the onsie diaper cover which is what I love about this dress.)  Because it is a top-stitched skirt, you need a rolled hem on the top of the skirt piece so it doesn’t fray.

Now we are ready to gather.  Sew a gathering stitch around your skirt waist about 1/4 inches below your top hem.  Pictured below:

 Gather your skirt and ease it around the waist of the onsie.  You can choose where you want this.  Mine was 2 1/2″ below the armpit.   I drew a light line in pencil so I could see where to pin the skirt.  Pin your ruffled skirt following your line making sure to evenly distribute the ruffles.  When you are happy with how it looks, sew it along your gathering stitch.  I covered my seam by sewing ric rac.  You could sew ribbon or lace or your favorite trim….or not.  It doesn’t look that bad with just the seam.

Dress Hem:  You can hem the dress how ever you like.  I was going to sew a small ruffle along the hem in coordinating fabric but I ran out of time.  So I did a lace hem.  I sewed the lace and pressed it out and top stitched it down.  You could use ric rac, or other decorative trim, or you can sew a regular hem.

Here it is!!  I also sewed a matching flower for the baby’s head – but I finished it on my way out the door to mail it – so no photo 🙁

Amanda

Quilted Heart Keychains

Every Valentine’s Day I like to make a little item to give my friends.  And so the Quilted Heart Key chain idea was born 🙂  I love this project because it is a total scrap buster!!  Here is how you can make one:

Supplies:

Scraps of 2 fabrics 
Scraps of cotton batting
Fusible web
Twill tape or ribbon
Small jump ring or key chain
Larger jump ring or zipper pull
Click HERE for the heart pattern

Step 1
Cut your main heart fabric into 2 squares about 4″ each.  Also cut your batting that size – this measurement can be very rough.

Step 2
Layer your items like you would a quilt.  Top piece right side facing out, batting, and back facing opposite.  
 
 Pin your heart to the top of this layering.
Step 3
Sew around the heart following the pattern.

Step 4
Trim close to your sewn edge.


Step 5
Cut 2″ of twill tape and loop it through your small split ring.   Sew the edges down toward the center of the heart.  This will be covered when you add the next fabric heart.


Step 6
Trace your smaller heart onto your fusible web (trace 2).  Iron it to the wrong side of the fabric.

Cut the hearts out on the line and iron them to both sides of the heart trying to center them the best you can.

Step 7
Top stitch around the center heart.  I stitched around it twice.  I like when the stitches kind of follow each other and are not perfect – kind of sketchy like.  
Then add your larger split ring or zipper pull.  Done! 
 

Amanda

The Bella Clutch from Clover & Violet

 The cute girls at Clover & Violet are offering this darling clutch pattern for free.  Click HERE to check it out!  I sewed one up last night and the pattern is easy to follow and it is super cute!!  You should make one!!

I didn’t add a strap to mine as I will use it inside my purse.  I also quilted it with batting.   I love how it is puffy and can stand up on it’s own!  I choose these colors because I only had purple zippers on hand – yikes!  better order some more!

Quilted Tote Bag Tutorial


This is my favorite tote bag.  Of course I didn’t invent the quilted tote 🙂  Here is my tutorial for how I made this one.  Hope you love it!

Supplies:
1/3 yard main outer fabric
1/3 yard bottom contrast outer
3/4 yard muslin or other light weight for the back of the quilting
3/4 yard bag lining
1/4 yard handles
quilt batting
911 feather weight interfacing (optional)
1/3 yard contrasting fabric for pocket (optional)

Instructions
Cut your main outer fabric (top piece) 2 pieces 10.5″ x 20″
Cut your bottom contrast fabric 2 pieces  9.5″ x 20″
Sew these two pieces together and press. 

I pin basted my two outer bag pieces and straight lined quilted every 1 inch.  You can quilt how you want it.  I actually used an old sheet for the back of this part – you will never see it – it just adds stability to the quilting.

Quilt both pieces

Cut your lining (2 pieces) 19.5″x20″.  (I had to cut 1/4 inch off the 19.5″ piece because the outer bag shrunk from the quilting.  So mine measured 19.25″ x 20″)  Iron the fuseable Pelon to the wrong side of your bag lining fabric – this is optional.  Once I finished mine, I thought this step really wasn’t necessary.

Next, prepare your pocket. Cut 2 strips 6.5″ x 20″.  Sew the two pocket pieces right sides together.

Sew 1/4 inch along the top and bottom – leaving edges open.

Turn and press.  Top stitch along just the top of the pocket piece.

Pin the pocket band where you want the pocket to hit.  I pinned mine 7 inches from the top of the bag.

Now sew along the sides and the bottom using a narrow 1/8 inch seam allowance.  Then sew lines going down the pocket piece to form the pockets.  I just eyeballed mine.  Some are narrow for pencils, others are wider.

Prepare the handles.  Cut 2 strips 28″ x 4″.  If your fabric is thin, iron fusable interfacing to handle pieces before sewing.  This fabric was kind of canvas-like.  Fold longways and sew along the side leaving the ends open to turn.

Turn and press both handles.  Top stitch both sides of handles.

Now, pin your outer bag right sides together, matching the side seams.  Also, pin your lining together right sides together.  Sew around both pieces leaving the top open.  I used about a 1/2 inch seam.  Make sure your seam allowance is exactly the same for both bags or they won’t match up!

Place your handles as desired.  Use this point to shorten the handles if you want.  Baste the handles on to the outer bag using a 1/8 inch seam.

Push out the bottom of the bag – while it is wrong side out.  Flatten and measure 3 1/2″ from the point and draw a straight line.  Do this to both ends of the outer bag and the lining.

Pin in place and sew along your line – back-stitching to start and stop.

Trim along your seam about 1/4 inch.

You are almost done!  Now the fun part!  Leaving the outer bag wrong side out, put the lining (right side out) inside the quilted bag.  Match the side seams and pin all the way around the bag.  It should line up perfectly.

Sew a 1/4 inch seam all around the entire bag.

Unstitch a little place on the side lining of the bag to turn the bag right side out.

Turn bag right side out and top stitch the opening closed using matching thread.

Press the lining down so the top of the bag is flat (it will want to puff out the top).

Top stitch using 1/8″ seam all around the bag.

You are done!!!!


Halloween Wreath


The girls over at Eighteen25 are showcasing a new Halloween Project Tutorial everyday.  I decided to make one of the projects.  It’s a Halloween wreath.  Click HERE to see their featured wreath and tutorial.  This is my version!!

Start with a wreath from the dollar store.  Eighteen25 used a foam wreath – this woven wreath is all our dollar store had.  Then get black and white fabric.  I tore mine in 4″ x WOF strips.  I used about 5 strips.

 Hot glue the fabric every so often, kind of bunching it together where you glue it.  (I only burned myself 4 times!!!)

 Go all the way around the wreath, then glue fabric around the inside and then the outside using the same bunch & glue technique.

Next  cut a 12×12 piece of Halloween paper into 4″ strips – you need three strips.  I scored each strip every half inch.  Then accordion fold the strips, glue them together to form a large rosette. 

 I hot glued a piece of black spiderweb paper into the center. 


 I added a vintage Halloween card to the front.  You can decorate it any way you want.  I think the fabric glued to the wreath is such a cheap, fast, easy base for any wreath for any occasion!!

Coffee Table Re-Do!

 I bought this coffee table at a garage sale over 6 months ago – I paid $2 for it!  I didn’t really know what I wanted to do with it – I figured I would paint it or something.  So, it sat in the backyard for months and months.  After reading I Heart Naptime’s post on DIY Chalk Paint, I was inspired to paint something.  This coffee table was the perfect candidate!

 Step #1
Have your husband kill the black widow spider that is living in the underside of the table.  YIKES!!!

 I loved the tutorial from I Heart Naptime.  She does an amazing job of explaining each step and her piece of furniture came out fabulous.  You should check it out!!  I followed her steps pretty closely.

#2 Sand

This table had spots of glitter glue all over it from it’s previous owner.  I felt that a good sanding would help my table get off to a good start.  I didn’t sand down to the grain – just till it was smooth.

 #3 Base Color
My goal in this piece was to distress it.  I wanted a black color showing through (you can use any color – or even have the wood show through)  I used some black paint and painted the edges and spots on the surface.  Looking back, I would have given the entire table a coat of black because I couldn’t remember where I put my spots on the top!!

#4 Vaseline

This is a technique to help the base color show through the top color.  I have also seen it done with candle wax.  Rub the Vaseline along the edges and parts where you want the black to show through – this will give it a shabby chic or rustic look depending on how much sanding you do. 

#5 the Chalk Paint Mixture

This is where we will get that worn, vintage feel to our paint.  I went to Lowe’s and purchased latex paint in a light aqua color.  I asked for Satin finish and when I got home I noticed it was semi-gloss.  I was a little miffed, but it worked fine anyway. 

Mix 5 Tablespoons of Plaster of Paris with 2 to 3 Tablespoons water in a small container
Then measure 2 cups of paint in a separate container and stir the plaster mixture into the paint until it’s smooth.  This was the right amount for the size of table I was painting.

#6 Paint Paint Paint

I gave my table 3 coats of paint with a paint brush, letting it dry completely between coats.  Some items may only need 2 coats of paint.

#7 Inspection
Make sure your cat inspects your work, getting his paws, tail and back in the paint!!

#8 Sanding
Take a light weight sand paper and sand where ever you want the black to show through.  I sanded all the edges, curves, and random areas on the top.  This is where the Vaseline helps so you don’t have to sand like crazy – especially with 3 coats of paint!  It worked great!!

 #9 Finishing Wax
This is my favorite part of the project!  Use Minwax Paste Finishing Wax.  Get a rag and rub it all over your piece of furniture.  Then let it sit for 20-30 minutes.  Take another cloth and buff or polish the wax.  The wax gives it a vintage look as it is not glossy or too shiny, yet not flat.  It’s the perfect finish for this project.  If you are finishing a piece that needs to be durable, such as a kitchen table, I suggest polyurethane or polycrylic – it will be more durable.  You can get those in satin finish so they aren’t too glossy.

 Ta Da!!!!
It’s done & I LOVE it so much!!!

 I would totally paint furniture using this technique again.  When I bought the $2 table I was thinking $4 of spray paint and it’s done.  This process was lots more $$ but still cheaper than buying real chalk paint.  Plus I have plenty of Plaster of Paris and finishing wax to do several more projects – YEA!!!

Blow Fish Tutorial at Riley Blake

I haven’t been able to post any new projects but I did find this darling fish tutorial.  It’s from Riley Blake Designs and I can’t wait to make a school of them!!

Princess Draw-String Bag

We were invited to a princess birthday party.   I sewed this princess draw-string bag using this amazing tutorial again.  I am telling you – you gotta make one!  They are so much fun!  I thought it would be the perfect birthday gift for a 4 year old.  We included inside Bath & Body Works body spray & lotion and some princess sunglasses.  We were so excited for the party!  That’s my little Rapunzel!!!